Monday morning began all to early but with much excitement as we left Aoraki polytechnic in style at 5am. The powers that be decided we could in fact drive in the luxury wheels of the Nissan station wagon #10. Destined for a mid-day helicopter flight up into the Franz Neve with a fine forecast and plenty of great food and climbing gear the week promised to be a good one! The excitement however nearly began all to early as we left Wanaka (after the compulsory pie and petrol stop) and cyclists began to invade the road. First I committed to an all too small gap passing a cyclist with the oncoming car deciding it did in fact want to drive right next to the center line. Thankfully we got through with a comfortable 30cm or so to spare on each side. After this stunning display of my alertness after a 4am alarm I handed the wheel over to Weasel after stopping for more petrol at Hast. The invasion of the cyclists continued. Including a particularly dangerous pair who thought it wise to ride two abreast with a large motor caravan and us stuck behind them. Finally a spot to pass, and suddenly Andy has his head out the window on the way past, “MOVE OVER!” is yelled in no uncertain terms to the offending parties. Finally leaving the army of cyclists behind we catch up to not one, not two but THREE family wagon people mover type rentals driving in convoy. Not too worry after Mikes earlier display of driving today is obviously our lucky day so Weasel decides to really test out the “sports mode” on the automatic gearbox and passes all three in one go. By now we are deciding perhaps the climbing is going to be the safe part of the week.
However before we know it we are bundled into the helicopter and heading for Centennial hut on the Franz Neve! Thanks to our early start we are able to claim bunks in the already well populated hut. By that evening there are two parties outside digging snow caves as the hut is full. After the first evening already Andy has declared with this many helicopters coming and going it must be fine to leave a large communal bag of rubbish to be flown out! A rare treat for an Aoraki trip, not carrying your own rubbish out.
After a late start on Tuesday morning as there was no freeze we are headed up Mt Jervois. After a few cruisy pitches and a bit of scrambling we reach a large gendarme. Since it looks decisively nasty, steep, with shallow snow and lots of flaky black rock we sit down and have a discussion. Eventually it is decided we will have a look at it! Since Weasel has had a year off mountaineering I take the first (short) lead, build an anchor and sit down in the sun to belay. Weasel is now left to come across the easy scramble then lead up the steep snow to the steeper choss pile of exposed black wheat-bix rock which crosses into a gully of very shallow snow. This on a climb the guidebook described as a good climb for before breakfast! Alas it is not to be. Due to a distinct lack of any anchors or even rock staying together enough to hold on to, after a large climb up and down by Weasel and a tiring belay sitting in the sun by me. We turn around and head back for lunch.
Wednesday morning is not to be so cruisy, 4am finds us wandering across the glacier towards our goal for the day, The Minarets. What a day, sun, steep ice, and we made it to the top! 3031 meters with a view to die for! Memorable moments of Wednesday include: Andy dropping his ice-screw and me catching it for him, Andy dropping Weasels caribiner (luckily for Andy it stopped sliding 100 meters below us and was retrievable on our way down), Andy following me over a snow bridge and falling in the slot up to his armpits and finally Andy kindly lightening our loads for walking out by getting us to leave behind two slings and two crappy old snow stakes as rap anchors on the way down. 15 hours later we arrived back well content to the hut.
The next two days are spent walking to Chancellor hut and down onto the glacier before flying out. However on the way we manage a Grand Traverse of the mighty Chancellor Dome. Along the way I try to lead a pitch of rock as an alternate route. Unfortunately i get half way up and discover the large scary looking loose block above us we saw from the ground looks far worse and far scarier when I am immediately beneath it. Kind of like looking down the barrel of a canon in fact. So goes sling #3 as i rap back down to safety and we take the alternate route around. As I climb on to the helicopter on Friday morning I do so both with a sense of relief (we are flying the last stretch rather then a six hour dodgy scramble round seracs, ice-cliffs and scree) and also regret. Regret to be leaving such an amazing place. After a week in such beautiful yet humbling surroundings one cannot leave unchanged or uninspired. So with such an amazing beginning bring on third year mountain for 2007
However before we know it we are bundled into the helicopter and heading for Centennial hut on the Franz Neve! Thanks to our early start we are able to claim bunks in the already well populated hut. By that evening there are two parties outside digging snow caves as the hut is full. After the first evening already Andy has declared with this many helicopters coming and going it must be fine to leave a large communal bag of rubbish to be flown out! A rare treat for an Aoraki trip, not carrying your own rubbish out.
After a late start on Tuesday morning as there was no freeze we are headed up Mt Jervois. After a few cruisy pitches and a bit of scrambling we reach a large gendarme. Since it looks decisively nasty, steep, with shallow snow and lots of flaky black rock we sit down and have a discussion. Eventually it is decided we will have a look at it! Since Weasel has had a year off mountaineering I take the first (short) lead, build an anchor and sit down in the sun to belay. Weasel is now left to come across the easy scramble then lead up the steep snow to the steeper choss pile of exposed black wheat-bix rock which crosses into a gully of very shallow snow. This on a climb the guidebook described as a good climb for before breakfast! Alas it is not to be. Due to a distinct lack of any anchors or even rock staying together enough to hold on to, after a large climb up and down by Weasel and a tiring belay sitting in the sun by me. We turn around and head back for lunch.
Wednesday morning is not to be so cruisy, 4am finds us wandering across the glacier towards our goal for the day, The Minarets. What a day, sun, steep ice, and we made it to the top! 3031 meters with a view to die for! Memorable moments of Wednesday include: Andy dropping his ice-screw and me catching it for him, Andy dropping Weasels caribiner (luckily for Andy it stopped sliding 100 meters below us and was retrievable on our way down), Andy following me over a snow bridge and falling in the slot up to his armpits and finally Andy kindly lightening our loads for walking out by getting us to leave behind two slings and two crappy old snow stakes as rap anchors on the way down. 15 hours later we arrived back well content to the hut.
The next two days are spent walking to Chancellor hut and down onto the glacier before flying out. However on the way we manage a Grand Traverse of the mighty Chancellor Dome. Along the way I try to lead a pitch of rock as an alternate route. Unfortunately i get half way up and discover the large scary looking loose block above us we saw from the ground looks far worse and far scarier when I am immediately beneath it. Kind of like looking down the barrel of a canon in fact. So goes sling #3 as i rap back down to safety and we take the alternate route around. As I climb on to the helicopter on Friday morning I do so both with a sense of relief (we are flying the last stretch rather then a six hour dodgy scramble round seracs, ice-cliffs and scree) and also regret. Regret to be leaving such an amazing place. After a week in such beautiful yet humbling surroundings one cannot leave unchanged or uninspired. So with such an amazing beginning bring on third year mountain for 2007
